Season 7, Episode 8 - Early May Playbook

From spray coverage and rain timing to making block by block calls, Kari, Greg, and Shan focus what to do this year to protect what's left and what to do to prepare for next year.

Host: Don Seifrit
Speakers: Kari Peter, Shan Kumar, Greg Krawczyk

Photo Credit: Shan Kumar, PSU

Music Credit: “The Raven and the Swan” by Josh Woodward is licensed under a Attribution 3.0 United States License. Courtesy of FreeMusicArchive.org

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Flight Seasonalities of Main Fruit Pests During the Growing Season

Transcript

Welcome And Spring Meeting Recap

SPEAKER_02 0:08

All right, welcome back once again, everybody. I'm Don Sefer. It's the Dr. Tree Fruit and Dawn Podcast. It is Friday, May 8th, 2026. I am here with Dr. Carrie Peter. Say hi, Carrie.

SPEAKER_00 0:17

Hi, Carrie.

unknown 0:19

Dr.

SPEAKER_02 0:20

Greg Krawczak, say hi, Greg. Hi, Greg. Dr. Sean Kumar. Say hi, Sean. Hi, Sean. All right. Everybody's a bunch of jokers today.

SPEAKER_01 0:31

No, we're just following the directions.

Conservative Disease Program After Freeze

SPEAKER_02 0:34

Yeah, yeah. Uh, we will start with Dr. Peter.

Marssonina Risk And Fungicide Rotation

Bitter Rot Setup In Warm Wet Weather

Fire Blight Prevention With Prohexadione

SPEAKER_00 0:39

Okay, well, first, uh, just want to give uh we so Greg, Sean, and I, and also um Dr. Sarah Sarah, we just finished the spring meetings last night. So I just want to give a shout-out to everyone who came out to the spring meetings over the last two weeks. We had really great attendance overall. Um granted, we you know, it was a bit sad to talk about um sort of the situation at hand with the crop, but we really appreciated everyone coming out. So I just want to give a shout out to the listeners who who were who attended uh the meetings over the last two weeks. So so moving forward, what to do? Um, so in the article that we put out last week, I had talked about um being conservative with Menkazeb and Captain and Orsulfur. So I would just will say to emphasize this because this did come up in the meeting last night, the success of that program will be dependent upon um how you spray, uh whether it's um complete sprays or keeping your alternate row middle sprays very tight and also being mindful of how much rain falls in between sprays, and then also how old that spray is when you um when that rain event occurs. So it's just be mindful of that. For people moving forward who aren't sure where their crop is gonna go. Um, I just had an email about this um late yesterday. I would say move forward like you would have you would be spraying as if you had a crop if this is what you're not sure of. So, what does that mean? So, whatever kind of tools you have in the tool shed for single motive action, fungicides, this is what you want to be using. Tank mixed with a broad spectrum, mancazeb, rain fast mancazeb right now. So we're at the end of scab. Scab should be over for everyone right now. Marcenina is on our plate. We will have great conditions for Marcenina infection uh late this weekend. It's supposed to be very warm on Sunday with rain coming in. So Marcenina likes very warm temperatures. It likes it in the upper 60s, low 70s, or higher. It doesn't like it the low 60s or 50s or 40s. It's uh kind of temperamental, such that it likes the warm temp. So we're gonna have that this coming weekend. And it looks like in the southern part of the state, we do see that coming up for next week. So, what works? So, tank mixing with your rain fast mangazib. You want to think about your frac threes and your frac sevens or combinations of those that are pre-mixes. So that's your Sevilla, your Luna Flex, Inspire Super, Luna Tranquility, Excalia, Aprovium, Merivus, those types of products. Um, rotate them, um, be mindful of the max numbers of sprays that you would use for each product. For fractors, it varies based on the fungicide. For frac sevens, it's typically a max of four sprays of seasons of frac sevens. So also keep in mind late in the season, for those of you who do have a crop, I always recommend usually wanting to at least have one Maravon spray at the end, and that's a frac 7 and 11. Um, with that said, also with the warm temperatures this weekend, this is gonna be also ideal for bitter rot weather. Um, and so the spores are out all season. This was uh done by work um my former grad student uh Philip Martin had done. And uh when it seems that bitter rot spores are problematic is when the conditions are present and the conditions are warm and wet, and that's what's gonna happen this weekend with the really high temperatures that are expected on Sunday in the upper 70s, maybe even low 80s. And then as far as late next week as well. So we want to be thinking about your broad spectrum, should be covering you with this. It's they're they're pretty potent by themselves to kind of keep bitter rot at bay. Um, but aprovia is excellent right now. If you want to be thinking, aproa would take care of your marcenina and your bitter rot. So it's something to think about with aprovia. Um, you could also be thinking about omega right now. Omega would take care of um marcenina um as well as bitter rot, or you could do a nice mix of mangazeb and captan for those who are on the fence of what they're gonna be doing with their crop this year. So if you do that, I would recommend three pounds of mangazeb and three pounds of captan. Um, I would make sure you get on a complete spray, two halves if that's necessary, if you're doing half sprays prior to that rain event, to make sure everything is covered up. Because if you have one half that is naked during that rain event, um, this is when trouble happens. Um so something to keep in mind. Um, so and the last thing I just want to quickly mention is fire blight. So I talked about fire blight in all the spring meetings. It seemed that there was very low incidence out there so far, um, but it's been very cool. So fire blight has been held back by Mother Nature. So my concern is we may see it really pop up and move, become more obvious when the warm weather hits. So, in those cases, people may be thinking about using the prohexadion calcium products. So there's lots of different products out there, apogee, kudos, and I know there's a bunch of others with that active ingredient. So this will harden off the shoots and limit the spread of fire blade because Erwinia needs green, succulent, tender shoots in order to move around. When the shoots are hardened off, they're thick in cell walls, and Erwinia can't penetrate that. So something to think about with regards to moving forward. If you've got big older trees that may not have fruit um but has had fire blade in the past, these will still, these trees will still get shoot blight during the summer because the cankers are reactivated. Um, the bacteria in the tree doesn't care about temperature, um, with excuse me, with regards to the cold temperatures that we've had, it's still active in the tree and it will move to the growing parts of the tree inside the tree. And this is what we call canker blight. Typically, you will see shoot blight that's clustered on a branch. And so, in order to limit that, this is when prohexadyl and calcium comes into play. So, using really on big older trees, the highest rate to really shut that down, and you may have to do multiple applications. I'm sure Sean will probably talk a little more about controlling vigor uh in general with low crop or no crop fruit trees uh uh using prohexadyl and calcium. And I just want to shout out that you get a lot of bang for your buck with those prohex sprays because you'll control the vigor and also fire blade at the same time. So those are the broad brushstrokes that folks should be thinking about uh with regards to diseases right now.

SPEAKER_02 7:09

Sounds good. And we covered a lot of this during the spring meetings as well.

Stone Fruit Rusty Spot And Brown Rot

SPEAKER_00 7:13

Yes, yes. And I didn't mention stone fruit because it doesn't seem there's much of a stone fruit crop out there. Um, for those who do have stone fruit, I did talk to you yesterday about that. Um, the the select few that have it. So right now we're just to quickly with that before I forget, we're at the tail end of Rusty Spot. So there's probably one or two more sprays for Rusty Spot. That's powdery mildew in the fruit. And then you can just kind of get in with cover sprays of captan to keep brown rot spores down. But that's all that's really needed for stone fruit right now.

SPEAKER_02 7:44

Sounds good. And we'll go to Greg.

Timing The Next Insecticide Window

Spray Only For Pests You Have

Thinning Plans For Blocks With Crop

SPEAKER_01 7:47

This update really will be short, and this is because well, as Curry mentioned, we talked with a lot of you in the last two weeks. We visited a lot of places, and most of you know what's going on in the insect world right now because as cold as it is, there is really not too many potential threats caused by the insects in the orchard. Um saying this, the insect did not die because of the cold. The cold the freeze, they survived the freeze, and now they basically are slowed down because of the temperature. I just moment ago I checked the forecast for the next 14 days, and it looks that except for a little bit warmer day on Sunday in two days, the rest the next week are still will be in hardly low sixties, at least for the Biggerville area, and nights in the forest. What does it mean for the insects? Well, they will survive the cold, but they will not be very active. If they are not very active, so there is no mating. Everything takes a lot of longer to develop. Egg development that are already late will be slower. Egg development inside the female body will be slower, they will not be new mating. So it really looks like there's not a lot that can be done to control insects at least for another week. Saying this, again the forecast and forecast can change in the next 15 minutes, but the one I check the last basically says that starting from some time the weekend of the May 17, which is next weekend, then all the conditions become perfect. What that means is that all the plum curcule that did not do the damage until then, they will be there and actively looking for any fruit they can find. All the codling moth adults will be looking to mate, and actually females will be looking for any fruit they can find to lay eggs. Oriental fruit moth, which right now is about at 50% egg hatch. Uh those larvae will really start feeding, those larvae will really become active. Again, 50% egg hatch means that 50% of the larvae are already out, but another 50% are still in the egg stage. So there will be a lot of things happening a week from now on the insect world, taking into account the limited number of fruit that might be available in most orchards across Pennsylvania, not all, uh those insects really will focus on the fruit that they can find. And this is something that I we I talk about it a lot during our meeting meetings last two weeks, those fruit actually will be you know like a target for all the insects that can actually injure them. So as I don't see any need for any insecticide right now, end of next week, end of next week is the time when you want to go with the insecticide, you want to have the active residue on the fruit. By then, hopefully, some fruit that will not make it will drop to the ground anyway. So if you want to protect the fruit, the time to do it will be late next week. Late is, you know, I mean the temperature is supposed to switch into the 70s and 80s starting from Saturday. So if you spray on Friday, Thursday, a week from now, you should have the active residue from most products for at least another two weeks. So this is the product that will control any effect of Plum Corculeo trying to overposit and lay eggs. It's those products should kill codling moth. If the codling moth is there, the issue with the codling moth is that codling moth requires a higher develop has has a higher developmental threshold. And we normally say that codling moth needs to be controlled at about 5 to 10% of egg hatch based on the degree accumulation, and we are already more than two weeks since the biofix. As of today, in Biggerville area, we only at 113 degree days. In the next week, the accumulation is basically two, four degree days per day. So by the end of next week, we still will not be at 250. Saying this, when the temperature moves to those 80s, upper 70s, and night temperature will be above 50s, we will start accumulating 10, 15, 20 degree days a day. So again, the spray by the end of next week, even if this will not be a perfect timing, it should help controlling codling mouth as well. Uh we spent some time talking about this new insecticide, Zevalgo. This product has all the pests that we're trying to control at this time on the label. How it's gonna perform with such an unusual fruit situation, I don't know, but all the information that we were able to generate by testing this product in the last five years, it really suggests that it should work against codling moth, oriental fruit moth, uh plum curculio, stinkbox. So this might be a good option if you want to try it. If not, something broad spectrum, like a vent, a sale, even imidan, are the products to be used next week. The next spray, which will happen when the codling moth becomes the most important product, that's the time when if you worry about codling moth and you know that the pressure is heavy, this is the time to use products the most effective against codling moth. Those this is the time then we have to maybe revisit all the alta cores, exirals, volumes. This is the time. So again, not this week, the insect-wise, we are good, but end of next week and then following week are the time that insects will show up in the orchards, assuming that they are there. Because you know, all those recommendations that you can find in the guides or even on the if you go to the newer, they tell you about the insects, assuming that they are there. If you don't have them and you never had a problem with them, then they might not need to be controlled. And this is something to remember that you know when we say, Oh, this is a time to control codling moth, does not mean means that everyone has to control codling moth. If you have traps and you don't have any codling moth in a trap, pheromone trap, then there is even if this is the best timing to control codling moth, you might not need to control codling moth because it's not outer. And the same for Oriental fruit moth, and the same for plum curculio. So make sure that what you're trying to control is stuff that you actually is present in your orchard. Otherwise, you can use water and it will be very effective treatment. You won't see any injury from the targeted pest because well, you know, you don't need to control something that is not in your orchard. So, this is the update right now. Again, we will go more into more details. Oh, okay. Let's let me add two other things. This is not a time to go after San Jose scale. Right now, the crowlers are already out there. We probably need to check, wait until the first summer generation, which will be end of May, depends weather, depending on the beginning of June. This is the time to control again San Jose scale. Um they are traps when we can talk about those traps in probably a week or two when they will be closer to it. Uh with the cold weather and plum curculeo. I really think if you had curculeo problem in the past with the warmer weather coming after next weekend, you might still need to maintain protection from plum curculeo at least for another two to four weeks after next weekend. It will be everything is delayed, but again, the cold weather right now is not killing the insects, it's basically slowing them down their movement from the outside, their activity in the orchard. So, this is something to remember, and again, we will have the next podcast. We can talk what will happen in a week or two weeks from now. Right now, next week, you don't have to control insects because there is really not a lot that you can control right now. So, with this, thank you. Any questions? No, sounds good, great. Thanks. Alright, Sean, after you.

Cutting Fruitlets To Judge Freeze Damage

Vigor Control With Apogee And Root Pruning

Secondary Bloom Pollination And Fruit Quality

Cost To Maintain Orchards Without Crop

SPEAKER_03 18:39

So uh it was great to meet a lot of you in the spring meeting series, uh, twilight meetings that we had around the state. And I just wanted to sort of recap where we are at currently and what's sort of the next steps. So I want to start with we saw orchards with varying levels of uh fruits on them. So I want to start with a scenario where you are indeed planning to crop that block and take it to harvest, and you have a good set that is in need of some thinning. So that's the assumption that I'm going with. And we'll talk about these blocks first before we move into the blocks that we uh don't have a crop on. So, four blocks where you have a crop on in Adams County, Bigdeville, I think you were close to eight to ten to twelve millimeters uh beginning of this week, and so you might have attempted uh some chemical initial chemical thinning uh during that time, especially if you have had if you have if you had had a uh full crop or something close to a full crop, because even if you did lose your kings uh in a particular cluster, the one of the laterals then turns into the pseudo-king, basically, because one of the laterals takes over, it becomes a dominant fruit in that cluster, and so you would still need to thin that cluster, thin it down so that you don't have more than uh one fruit or uh depending on what you're doing, more than two fruit in that cluster. So because of that, you still need to do thinning. I know it's a difficult year to think about thinning. Uh, a lot of folks can be gun shy because of the season that we have had, but in blocks where you have uh a decent crop or you have a full set or something close to that, I think that it is important to think about thinning right now. Uh so you might have gone with the first shot of thinning in the beginning of the week this week, especially in Adams County, and because fruitlets were closer to uh 8 to 10 millimeters. And moving moving on, I think we have warmer temperatures that are coming on about mid-next week. And so if uh you can assess how the thinning went about seven days after the thinning, so by the end of this week, early next week, you'll have a good idea of whether your thinning sprays worked. We didn't really have a big carbohydrate deficit, uh, but we had the temperatures, so I'm expecting that we'll get mild to moderate thinning from any thinning sprays that were made on Monday or Tuesday. And probably mid next week to uh late next week, I think uh if needed, you can go ahead with another uh thinning spray. Uh depending on the varieties, you can have uh most likely the combos that are being used uh by growers are Maxil uh or 6BA products like Maxil 6 Barrel combined with seven and oil in cases as well. Uh some cases as well. And then, of course, we have uh other newer products in the market. We have Brevis Melametron that was registered last year, so that's available as well. And then we also have uh Acid, which is another Mode of action that's available as well available as well. And so most likely your fruitlets will have gone beyond the 15 millimeter size if you're thinking of thinning them again next week. So we have uh some tools in the toolbox depending on the temperature. I think that uh any of these combinations uh could potentially work when the fruitlets are between 15 to 20 millimeters in size. And uh ethiphon also thins, of course, with the what the worry with ethiphon is by mistake taking out more, so etifon, I think, is less used. But uh towards mid next week or uh late next week, I think you can start thinking about whether you need a second thinning spray for your uh blocks that you do have a crop on and close to a full crop or something, or even half of a crop, but you still need to thin down to about you know 100-120 fruitless fruitless, depending on uh the size of your tree. I'm talking about a high density tree here. So uh that's that for orchard blocks that are growing. Uh, and uh now I want to shift focus and talk a little bit about or summarize a little bit about what we talked about during the spring meetings. So, across the state, we're noticing that uh quite a few fruitlets are actually growing, which could give the impression that the fruitlets are fine and going to continue growing. Uh, however, when we cut inside the fruitlet, we see a lot of browning. First, uh uh when you do a cross-section of the fruitlet, you see uh a lot of the seeds that are browning, but there might still be a few seeds that are that are not that are still green, and uh then there's that uncertainty of whether that's going to grow or not. But then, if you do cut the fruitlet longitudinally, which is not common, usually we always do a cross-section to look at the seeds, but when you cut the fruit longitudinally and you look at the seed cavity and you look at the seeds, you see a lot of damage that is going on there. And when you see that excessive browning there, it means that that embryo is being cut off from the resources, the nutrients. And so, what will what what is most likely going to happen is that they're going to drop off in a couple of weeks. The cold weather that we have had in the past week, and uh you know, a little bit of the upcoming week as well, has made it a little bit harder to sort of distinguish because if we had one week of very warm weather, a lot of these fruitlets are likely going to fall off. But uh, I think that because of the fact that they are not completely cut off, and it's more of uh more uh it and it can take anywhere from two to three weeks for them to fall off. Unfortunately, you won't have a good idea of which ones are gonna stay, which ones are gonna fall off until about two to three weeks. But most likely when you cut uh longitudinally and you see the browning seed cavity, and you see that that is uh that is most likely going to fall off. If there's minimal damage, if it's a very light brown and you still have a lot of seeds, and otherwise the fruitlet is looking good, then there's a good chance that it could potentially survive as well. Now there is a complication that arises from uh uh when you had when you had the freeze on April 2021 and you were close to say full bloom or something like that, and you did a promolin or perlan sprays, which are basically a combination of uh gibrellins and cytokinids, which is basically giving tricking the fruit into continuing to grow despite uh uh sometimes not having uh the seeds fertilized well and things like that. So uh what happens there is that I've seen fruitlets that have grown past 12 millimeters and look like they're going to continue growing, but then when you cut into them, you continue to see the similar pattern that you see in other fruitlets where you see the seed cavity uh that's completely browning, and so there's two scenarios uh that could happen from here. One is in in about two weeks, three weeks, when it gets warmer, uh it is likely that it could drop, or because of that application, these fruitlets could actually stay on and become a fruit. But the issue with that is that if it has a decaying cavity or seed cavity in the middle, that cavity is still going to be there at harvest, meaning that that fruit needs to get disposed of immediately because it cannot be stored uh for a long time because it is most likely going to rot, and there's going to be limited uses for that fruit, like maybe juicing uh and things like that. So there are some decisions that need to be made based on the economics of your farm and your operation, based on whether you want to keep that fruit and take it to harvest, or you want to uh uh you're seeing more and more of that in a particular block, and you just want to uh want to see them removed. So that's a decision that you have to make. But that is something that we've been seeing in multiple orchards around the state where we see uh when you go look at the tree, especially now, some of these fruitlets are slightly smaller in other parts of the state, like Burks and in uh Bedford. We see fruitlets uh that are anywhere from say four four to six to eight millimeters. And when you look at the tree, the tree looks like it it does have somewhat of a crop, but then when you cut into the fruitlets, you see this sort of a unique damage uh that we see, and most likely you'll know in about two to three weeks what's gonna stay, what's going to come off, but because of the cold weather, unfortunately, you'll be needing a little bit more time to sort of distinguish that, and so uh so unfortunately in the meantime, I think uh depending on if you're unsure whether what what decision you want to make, you will have to continue maintenance as usual until such point where you decide, okay, I want to keep this block, I don't want to keep this block. Like I said, likely that when they if they have extensive damage when you cut cut the fruit longitudinally, they are most likely going to fall off. Uh but uh depending on when you apply promolin per land, there is a chance that these fruit could also be taken to harvest, but that seed cavity will still remain. So, again, uh there's a lot of decisions that need to be made here, uh, and that could depend block by block, depending on the damage that you are seeing. Now, uh moving on to uh vigor control. So we talked about uh apogee kudos for vigor control quite a bit, and uh so a lot of folks were asking if it is too late to apply apogee. It's definitely not too late to apply apogee. It's good if you started earlier, but you haven't applied apogee yet. I think this is a good time to think about applying apogee uh at 10 to 12 ounces uh uh at the 10 to 12 ounces rate per acre. And uh you might have to do repeated sprays in order to get vigor control, uh, especially in high vigor blocks. So, in low low to medium vigor blocks, most likely you will get good with good control of growth when you apply apogee, uh uh maybe two sprays of apogee about a week apart. Uh but for highly vigorous brocks, you might want to go with three sprays of apogee, or you might also want to uh consider root pruning. I know some growers uh have been root pruning some blocks, some vigorous brocs as a regular practice every year, so you might have to uh think about uh combining apogee sprays with root pruning in order to keep the vigor under control, especially in highly vigorous blocks of Fuji, Golden Delicious, and things like that. Uh you might want to consider mixing the two in those high vigor blocks. But for the low to medium vigor, I think apogee can do a lot uh to control uh the vigor because you want to make sure that you don't have an overgrowth and which results in crowding the next year and uh you don't have enough light penetration, and that uh creates its own host of problems with color and uh carbohydrates and all of that. So you do want to make sure to maintain the trees well this year. This is uncharted territory for a lot of us. Uh this is the first time in many many years that you we have blocks that we have to sort of maintain without a crop, and so it's important to think about that. So when you and you can easily find out how you're doing with apogee based off of what shoot growth you're seeing. So if you're seeing a lot of shoe growth and uh and then you might have to go in with an apogee spray, just remember that apogee does have uh a two-week lag, uh, meaning that when you spray apogee, it's most likely that you won't see uh the results that you're expecting until about uh two weeks after after your spray. So because of that, it is important to spray apogee now, uh and uh make sure that you know the vigorous control. I know in some blocks or orchards I've heard from growers that they've already seen about six to eight inches of growth. Uh and I mean it's only the it's only the beginning of May. And so it's important in those vigorous blocks to spray apogee. So that's with vigor control. And uh that's that's it for me. We'll be continuing the phenology updates for a couple of weeks, uh, just to sort of look at lateral blooms because a lot of growers are uh depending on lateral brooms for their uh for their set, especially if you have lost completely lost a primary set and you have a lot of lateral blooms, a lot of secondary bloom. Uh, they're most likely, I feel like they're gonna set some fruit with the quality of the fruit, uh, is usually not as great as the primary set, and usually they don't achieve the size as well. But if that's all the fruit you have, most likely you're gonna wait to set it for those blocks. Uh we are still about a week to two weeks uh uh difference delay in growth and development of those secondary lateral blooms as compared to the primary set. So we are still anywhere from petal fall to sometimes in some orchards, it's it was still full bloom uh with the secondary bloom. And so uh you just have to make sure that there is a pollinating source for that, meaning that there's another variety that can pollinate uh that your variety uh that also has bloom because you do need that to pollinate that secondary bloom, otherwise, that is not going to get pollinated. But uh there's nothing much to do there at this point. I think you have to wait for a couple of weeks to see what sort of a set you're getting from your uh secondary bloom or lateral bloom. For folks who are a little bit further ahead, if your lateral bloom has gone on uh and your lateral blooms are leach uh fruitlets are already set and they're reaching sizes of say 8, 10, 12 millimeters, then you might want to consider thinning some of those uh lateral set off as well. Uh because especially when you have don't have a primary set at all and you're completely dependent on lateral blooms, most likely those fruit are going to set. They usually drop more, they usually don't grow as much, but they're still going to persist, and you might still need to thin off quite a bit of them so that the fruit that is remaining is able to grow at least to somewhat of a medium size of a fruit. And so, again, it's it's a wait and watch scenario for quite a lot of you waiting to look at what apples will stick and what apples will not, but uh that's kind of the update for for this week. I just wanted to quickly mention that I made up a chart of the costs of maintaining an orchard on a per acre basis if you if you do not have a crop, so that'll be coming out as an extension article. Uh, but for a high-density uh mature orchard, the costs I mean from the freeze event onwards until the next year, including pruning, foli disease management, uh vigor control, herbicides, mowing, diesel fuel, labor, and all of that, it comes to around$1,350 per acre uh as a cost. And so this will go out as an article either today or uh sometime Monday. And so that's just something to keep track of of what your costs are, even in a year, so that you have that as uh you have that tracked and it could be it could be useful at a later point. And so I think that uh these costs do represent a significant cost without a crop, but um uh if you want to make sure that you want to maintain your crop so that uh next year is you continue and you start in a good place, I think you will still have to do all of this maintenance to keep your orchards uh healthy for a good crop next year. Uh but that's it for me. Thanks, Don. Great, thanks. And say goodbye. Goodbye, everyone. Good luck.

SPEAKER_00 35:40

Goodbye, good luck.

SPEAKER_01 35:42

Thank you, guys.